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The Soul of Surfing Fred Hemmings

The Soul of Surfing

Fred Hemmings

Published May 20th 1999
ISBN : 9781560252054
Paperback
176 pages
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 About the Book 

The boldness with which we saw [the Hawaiians] perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing. . . . Penned over 200 years ago, Captain Cooks words could be written today with no less awe or sincerity. In Waikiki, theMoreThe boldness with which we saw [the Hawaiians] perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing. . . . Penned over 200 years ago, Captain Cooks words could be written today with no less awe or sincerity. In Waikiki, the Hawaiians were the first people to harness the surf as a source of pleasure. Where, for thousands of years, cultures living on the coastlines of the worlds great oceans had seen waves only as menacing natural adversaries, the Hawaiians saw fun. Today, as surfers push the boundaries of wave riding, the ultimate test for the surfing elite remains Hawaiis formidable waves. The Soul of Surfing is Fred Hemmingss talking story about surfings culture and history, his own long association with the sport, and everything from surfer slang to the daredevils who risk death to challenge the big waves.